ezbass

Any of those would work nicely. However, it it were me, I’d go for the Katana as it offers all the modelling and effects you might want, has the headphones out you’ll be using most of the time, but will also give the option of going fully amplified (at different levels) if you want to ‘feel’ what you’re playing or if suddenly you want to jam with others.

Lots of Basschatters here.

Doesn’t work for me at all. It’s an answer to a problem that nobody has and is an ergonomic nightmare. If someone is a massive JH fan, they’ll buy a white, left handed (or right handed if you’re a lefty) Strat from the Fender stable of brands. “Why?” is my knee jerk reaction.

That’s a very cool looking guitar. Loving the Casino in the background too.

At those prices they’re going to be good guitars. I’d probably go for the one I liked the look of best, as tone and playability should be top notch.

Ooh, another build thread; goodo.

Ooh, hello, pretty.

Most tuning issues are due to badly cut nuts and dodgy bridges. If these are spot on, then locking tuners can only make it even more stable and make string changing breeze. However, if your nut and bridge are not right, locking tuners will just seem like a waste of money. I’m a big fan of Bigsby trems and fitted a Gretsch I once had with locking tuners and a roller bridge, yes they helped, but they didn’t cure the inherent ’wayward’ nature of the Bigsby, I just learnt to work with it. Now a Fender Strat trem is a much more stable beast and you can get them to behave much better, but I would recommend doing things in a logical order, locking tuners being down the list a ways. Right then, that’s the sensible talk out of the way. You want to buy a nice, new, high spec guitar? You are amongst friends, do what makes you happy, we love a bit Gear Acquisition Syndrome, especially when it’s accompanied by photos.

Get a reputable luthier/tech to service and set up your current guitar. I’m pretty handy in this department but I recently had a guy at Guitar Guitar do a full service and set up on my Epiphone due to a few raised and scratched frets (beyond my abilities); what a difference! It now plays absolutely brilliantly and seems a bargain at £70 (IIRC).

Welcome. Joining a forum is a pretty good way to start. Although learning all on your own, finding someone who can guide you personally (remotely is fine) will help immensely.

If that had been my first guitar, I’d have been well chuffed.

https://www.musicradar.com/news/mountain-guitarist-leslie-west-dies-at-75 The way he could squeeze so much tone out of a single P90 is a lesson to us all.

Love it! Those Lace Sensors are fabulous.

I’m going to go with JH being a bit of a knob.

All of the above please.

Looks really ‘metal’

And the two together

All done! FullSizeRender.mov

Today, resistors, potentiometers and first test - “WOB WOB WOB” . Wired to footswitch and then... stop. Gotta leave something for tomorrow.

Oh my!

Today, just switches and caps.

Ah, I see, sorry. Hand sanitiser seems to strip off Sharpie ink and the like, no problem. Maybe give that a go, at least the fretboard will be germ free if it doesn’t work.

Lemon oil is the normal go to for fretboards: Dunlop, D’Addario are just two makes.

The Throb kit landed today. Just went through identifying the transistor values (painful job) and making sure everything in the parts list was present and correct. Some actual building can wait for another day.