Dad3353

I've never used anything on any of my guitars, basses, keys or drums. Various fingerboard essences (all wood...), and some over fifty years old, now. No sign of issues with any of them. I think it depends somewhat on one's climatic conditions (high and rapid humidity and/or temperature swings...); in the UK or here in France I've never had, myself, nor any folks I know, problems. I have used Dr Duck's wax for cleaning, on occasion on some (rarely...), though. Things might be different for other instruments, such as db, clarinet or oboe.

When I was doing the PA, then the Lights, for Kiemsa or other outfits, I wore a blue boiler suit. Very practical, until I out-paunched it.

On the other hand, I very much like the 'flash mob' style, where the spectacle appears as if by magic from hitherto anonymous folk. There are no rules.

Sorry about the de-rail, but I genuinely thought that there was a beautiful rosace on that guitar table..! Yes, I realise now that it's a reflection of your ceiling, but still..! A great photo, and a real mirror finish on the guitar. Good luck with the sale; that's a corker. Almost makes me wish I wasn't a drummer..!

That's not green; that's blue (turquoise at best...)

I must be very near the end of the sartorial scale; if any 'look' was to come back in fashion, I might be considered 'smartly dressed' if it was medieval Viking (and even then, hardly...). It's not, and never has been, a criteria in my life. Decent, clean, hard-wearing... I'm rather of the 'Einstein' model, as I have a medium stack of rugby shirts folded on their shelf. I put the clean one on top, and take the one from the bottom. Same for all other items. I can't really imagine any reason for dressing otherwise, except, maybe, for a 'themed' fancy dress party, and even then I'd go as an old rugbyman, I suppose. To me, life's far too short to bother with such notions, and, as with many other things, if I don't understand the 'rules' (and I don't...), I just don't play the game. I have one pair of shoes.

I'm wading through this two-hour seminar, given by Ted Greene. A 'simple' Telecaster, a 'simple' Fender amp, and a 'simple' set of competent fingers ... I can't watch it in one sitting; there's too much going on. Good Stuff...

The solution is simple enough, and you've given the clue to it, yourself ... Once on stage, deliver a speech to the audience (large or small...). Not for too long, naturally, or they'll all leave.

So, you're the fellow with the kitchen top, eh..? Hmm... ...

Virtue..?

This bloke's quite good ...

Good evening, Scott , and ... Plenty to read and amuse you here, and lots to learn and share. No suggestions except... Go for it..!

... or this ..?

Without hesitation, this one ... Mickey Baker's Complete Course in Jazz Guitar ... Stupidly low price, and a wealth of information that one would be hard to garner elsewhere. I've worn out several copies over the last fifty-odd years, and still consult it. Indispensable.

Good evening, NM, and ... Plenty to read and amuse you here, and lots to learn and share.

Ah, here we go ... This, in the foreground, is the airbrush kit I bought for little money. The black support is, in fact, the compressor. It did a reasonable job for a couple of years, including the 'plane in the background ... This is my spray booth; a card sheet folded on the workbench. I'm applying a matt black undercoat, as the final finish will be silver, and black is good for that... Here's the same 'plane with its silver finish, airbrushed in the same way... In the background, on the floor, can be seen my current compressor, with a tank ... ... and here's what I was using it for. Note that it's the same airbrush pen; I only have the one... Here's the result; a cardboard 'plane for The Littl'Un... I use the same airbrush for stuff like this (1/6 scale New Zealand bush pilot...) ... Hope this helps.

I'm not sure that I agree. My (very...) modest airbrush would do a guitar or bass body, no problem. It wouldn't suit painting a car, but folk use systems of the sort for motorbike fuel tanks, or crash helmets, and much more. I think you'd get better quality of finish and coverage from a half-decent airbrush than from a cheap paint sprayer. Unless you're going for mass-production, of course, in which case a spray booth could be set up. I use my airbrush in my modelling 'den', with no need for extra ventilation; just a large cardboard back-screen. I'll see if I can find a photo... My Dad made toys for Christmas, but hated having to paint them. One year, it was flat-pack dolls houses; I went to help him with the spraying. He had a compressor and gun set up in the back bedroom. Kitted out like astronauts, with a full mask, 'charlotte', long gloves... One squirt of the gun and one could see nothing; all was a dark green mist filling the small room. He'd rigged 'ventilation' of sorts, with a pipe going up the gutter down-pipe, so the paint-charged air was shot upwards. Several houses down-wind were doubtless surprised to find green spots on their washing, with no idea of where it came from..! Happy Daze...

For my model 'planes, I've had good results with a modest airbrush compressor system, or a 'pistol-grip' sprayer, available from several Far Eastern sources for under $50. Better yet would be one with a 'tank' compressor, for around $100. I've upgraded my system since (and even then, the very good compressor I bought was not ruinous...), and still use the original airbrush 'pen'. Worth a look..? Airbrushes ...

Try that first with a bit of gash wood; Our Eldest had to do it almost a drop at a time, as it goes off very quickly once it's on the wood. You may be luckier, of course, but if it goes wrong, there's no going back, so I'd recommend a 'dry run'.

Yes

Our Eldest did the same, using CA as a finish for his first electric Build ... ... over a wood stain. It took a couple of weeks, working outside, with disposable gloves, as the stuff is pretty toxic. The finish is superb, and unlikely to wear. Some practise on gash wood is required, to get the right rhythm for applying the CA, rubbing it around, moving on, repeat... and it took about a dozen coats to build up the effect. (There are no plastic parts used; the binding, pick-up surrounds, even the toggle switch cap, are hand-made wooden parts. The inlays are mother of pearl, the nut a beef bone. ...)

Yes, of course; mostly drum parts, though (I'm a drummer...).

Exactly, it has to match the profile of the fingerboard, in order to clamp each string to the fret. It's only a slight difference, but it's best to get the right one for the job.

I'd recommend a 'trigger'-style capo, for its consistent efficiency, ease of use and solidity. Here's four, from Amazon; cheap enough to try out, with a slightly more expensive option... Amazon Trigger Capos ... Our Eldest uses these (or ones like 'em...), fitting one for the intro of 'Under The Bridge' before whipping it off for the rest of the song. Our Second Guitar uses one, too, to match the singer's choice of key. They all have rubber 'jaws', and do no harm at all to the guitar neck. Hope this helps. Edit : Note the difference in shape between a 'flat' one (for nylon, classical, flamenco guitars with flat fingerboard...) and 'curved' (for electric, archtop, radiused fingerboards...) and buy accordingly. The rubber jaw will accommodate any slight difference in curveture, normally.