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Dad3353

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Everything posted by Dad3353

  1. Good afternoon, Wuggis, and ... Plenty to read and amuse you here, and lots to learn and share. As mentioned above, you're spoilt for choice these days. Good luck with the 'fettling'; be comforted to know that it's the first forty years that are the hardest, after which things sometimes tend to get slightly better.
  2. I'm sorry, I forgot that you're rather new here. Never mind; have it be known that I'm old, and these things that happened to me are in a dim and distance Past. I really can't remember quite how long ago I bought the Daisy Rock, but I doubt that the Seller is still advertising, or if he is, he's very old now, too..! That 'Venus' guitar looks to be excellent; I'd be pleased too..! Keep looking; meanwhile... Keep well, stay safe Douglas
  3. Ha..! I am the proud possessor of a Daisy Rock Retro 12-string... ...and a fine guitar it is, too..! Bought second-hand from a bloke in Holland, for a very modest price, and a staple of my humble 'collection' of instruments. Daisy Rock are maybe aimed, demographically, at girls, but they are real guitars, not toys.
  4. Good evening, Conmac, and ... Plenty to read and amuse you here, and lots to learn and share. Most guitars from the leading makers in the 'starter' price range are decent guitars (I certainly wish that they had been available when I started out with a real cheese-grater of a guitar..!). The Fender you mention is fine. There's quite a bit less to bother about with an acoustic for a beginner. First thing is learning how to tune it (and listen to when it needs tuning again...). A good tip for anyone starting out is to find a local tutor, if at all possible. It's so uch worth it to get good advice from the 'off', and makes progress that much more certain. It doesn't have to be expensive, but it really does help. Good luck with the project to the pair of you.
  5. @GNewbie: Ignore the above ^^; an acoustic guitar needs heavier gauge strings than an electric, which is what is referenced by Kiwi. Those links are the safe route to start you off, bronze strings at something like 12's for the top 'E'.
  6. I looked them all up, and if the price suits you, can't really say much bad about any of them. 'Used' can be a Good Thing, if the guitar has been looked after, as it's already 'set up'. One would have to have some confidence in the Seller, though, to be able to judge that. 'New', of course, has the advantage of having a guarantee, which is seldom needed to be called upon, but is at least reassuring. If buying second-hand, it's a Good Idea to have a friend 'player' to come along and try it out. This may be difficult in today's circumstances, but is to be considered. A 'player' could better judge an instrument than a complete novice (as long as that judgement can be trusted...). One last aspect: what about the aesthetics of the thing..? A preferred colour, or finish..? Trivial, up to a point, but an instrument that one 'bonds' incites more practise time, and pleasure. Think about a case of some sort, too, in the budget. A soft 'hard case' is a worthwhile investment to protect the guitar, and those referenced in your question merit looking after properly. Hope this helps.
  7. I'd recommend getting two guitars, a 1/2-size for the tot and a 3/4 for the elder. That way, no fighting. Don't buy toys, the Yamaha range is a Good Recommendation. A guitar emporium will either have them in stock or can order them, and they're not that expensive (around £50 or so, I think..?). It's a Good Plan to get the kids interested, and, even if they don't pursue as ados, they'll have a head-start if/when they decide to take it further.
  8. ... and find a Telecaster 'ashtray'..?
  9. Good evening (again ... ), Ed, and ... Plenty to read and amuse you here, and lots to learn and share.
  10. Good evening, Ed, and ... Plenty to read and amuse you here, and lots to learn and share. Here's a link to the 'Introductions' section ... Introductions ...
  11. Firstly: stop playing so hard for so long. Secondly: the 'standard' treatment to harden up finger tips is to dip them for half a minute in methylated spirit. It won't work wonders, however, if you're punishing yourself with over-zealous practise. Be assured that, as with most things, the fastest way is to go slowly. Practise, of course, but in sessions of, say, fifteen minutes, with a break, then another, then a break. Little by little (weekly..?) increase the session length by five minutes. This will give your fingers time to build up the toughened skin. Hope this helps.
  12. Here are some on Amazon.co.uk ... The 'A-frame' ones will do the job nicely; I use 'em for, amongst others, a Samick 335 copy, much like your Tanglewood. No need to go out; get one delivered.
  13. What guitar are you wanting to put on a stand..? Electric (model...)..?) Acoustic (Nylon... Jumbo...)..? Bass (Model...)..? I've got about half a dozen stands, for different instruments. What budget do you have..? Where are you..? All these things would help to give better advice.
  14. The first purchase, after the guitar itself, should be, in my view, a case for it. Not necessarily a flight-case, nor even a hard case; there are soft 'hard cases' now that protect very well. I shan't disgrace myself by recounting all the accidents I've either had myself, or witnessed in family, friends and even professional players whereby the instrument is put down, sometimes even for a couple of minutes, and the unthinkable happens. Store the guitar in its case. Take it out to play, leaving the case open (if at home, certainly, and elsewhere if at all possible...). Put it down in its case, and take it up again when ready. A stand is an option, and is very convenient, but a case beats it every time, in my experience, in preventing damage, with the added advantage in protecting the instrument when travelling (between rooms, to a friends house, to an 'open-mic' and more...). The only exception, for my own 'go-to' guitar and bass, is the wall-hangers behind my armchair, where they're out of danger but ready to hand, but they have cases, should I wish to go anywhere with them. Just my tuppence-worth; hope this helps.
  15. If we're open to other guitars than the high-flying Usual Suspects, I could present some of my guitars, just for their own sake, and recount a little of their story (how/why got them, what they're good or less good for etc...). Similarly, I have been learning, on and off, for decades, some aspects of guitar-playing; specifically trying to get to grips with chord/melody, and testing my receding memory with 'Misty'. I put the guitar down for a couple of weeks and it's gone; I have to start again (old age, you see...). Would a Beginners Guide to Guitar Pro or Drop 3 chords be useful..? Just a few from the top of my addled head...
  16. I'm right-handed, but play drums 'lefty'. I have a younger brother, totally left-handed; he plays guitar (very well...) right-handed. Whatever comes naturally, plus practise, is the thing, that's all. All sorts of tricks concerning jack sockets; one that might be useful is to use a knitting needle, slid into the jack hole to 'fish out' the socket. Once guided out, put a nut on it and tighten it up, with fingers at first, then with a spanner, socket or, at worst, a pair of pliers, end-on. Tip: slide the knitting needle through the retaining nut before anything else, so that it's already in place when the threaded part of the jack peeps out. The hardest part is often obtaining a suitable jack socket retaining nut in the first place, though; good luck with that.
  17. Good evening, BLO... With a guitar like that to learn on, you may consider yourself to be a very lucky person. Tanglewood have a fine reputation, and that model of guitar, in general (335 copy...) is extremely versatile. Be aware, if you're not already, that the instrument in the photo is the left-handed model. This may or may not suit you, depending on whether or not you are, yourself, left-handed. You may like to consider, as a beginner, seeing if guitar lessons are available in your area. It's the best way of making rapid progress, and avoiding troublesome bad techniques which are difficult to erase afterwards. For practise, it's better to do a few minutes each day than a couple of hours each week. Good luck with it all.
  18. No, they're normal. They're not caused by the strings, they're cut in by the luthier, or maker, to allow the string to come out from the bridge at not too sharp an angle. No cause for concern; all is well with that bridge. Hope this helps.
  19. Good evening, Simon, and ... Plenty to read and amuse you here, and lots to learn and share. I found your tip on pick-guard removal very useful, although I can't get the screws out of the narrow-neck jar I put them in (we don't have smarmy things such as ceramic ramequins...); at what point may I remove the gloves, please..?
  20. So... Play in 'E' like everyone else. No, seriously... Try connecting the amp to a different speaker (disconnect the current speaker, temporarily wire up another cab...), just to see if it's the speaker freaking out or the amp. If it's the speaker: change it for another. If it's the amp: a bit more difficult to trace, but a good tech should be able to. Try tapping the chassis to see if there's a loose contact, same on the soldered joints, to see if there's a dry one (don't do this yourself, unless qualified to work on potentially lethal equipment...). I'll assume that the valves have been swapped out, one by one, because that's an obvious source of problems of the sort..? Once fixed, t'would be good to get news here; it could help others. Good luck with it; it's a fine amp.
  21. Not the best, perhaps, but darned useful just the same..! I use one, for many tasks, especially when soldering (but not only...). If it's jack plugs you're soldering, the plug can be plugged into something (anything, really, as long as it's not turned on..!). A pedal, amp input, whatever... That'll hold the plug steady. Spring-type clothes pegs can help, too; one can even hold something in a peg, and hold the peg in the Rolson tool..! A small block of wood, with suitable holes drilled into it, can also make a support for stuff. I can't think of any 'magic bullet' device that does it all; a bit of 'System D', make-do and mend, and, of course, a big bucket full of Patience are about as best as it gets, along with the 'Helping Henry' Rolson tool.
  22. Good evening, Chris... It sounds as if you're not all that in love with your guitar, which is a shame. It should be understood that Danelectro were, and still are, rather towards the 'budget' end of the market, with the advantages that that brings, and the inconveniences. It has a distinctive tone, but will never be a Gibson nor Rickenbacker. Personally, I wouldn't consider upgrades as such; repairs are a different matter. Leave the nut alone; it's doing its job and it won't improve anything to change it. Same for the bridge; once it's intonated, it shouldn't need touching often at all, and it won't be an easy job to find anything that'll fit. I'm puzzled by the mention of a 'boost' switch. If that's the seven-position pick-up selector, what's wrong with it..? What has the tone pot got to do with it..? If you can explain that a bit more, maybe a solution could be offered. Over to you...
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