ezbass

Speak of Purple and their guitarists and most folk think of Blackmore or maybe Tommy Bolin, but the amazing Steve Morse served in that role longer than either of those 2 put together - 28 years! I’ve been a Steve Morse fan from before his Purple days, a player with an individual voice and style. He’s been a farm labourer, an airline pilot, as well as one of the finest guitar players out there. In recent years, he’s had mobility issues with his right hand/wrist and I thought this was why he has finally quit the band. No, it’s to care for his wife, who has been diagnosis with cancer . https://planetradio.co.uk/planet-rock/news/rock-news/steve-morse-deep-purple/ If you’re unaware of Steve Morse and like virtuoso, rock guitar, I whole heartedly recommend you check out his work with his own band, The Dixie Dregs or Kansas, as well DP.

I would run over all the connections and re-solder them. Also check that there isn’t a fine wire from that pickup shorting to earth somewhere.

Never used one, but for solely rhythm work, I think it’d work rather well. There must be a reasonably priced clone to make giving one a go not too onerous.

I haven’t had a wah for years, but I think it’s hard to beat a Cry Baby. I did try a Morley back in the day, but found it too subtle - not enough wakka wakka for my tastes.

Very nice, I do like an offset guitar.

Someone is selling a TRex power supply for £50 on Basschat https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/465872-t-rex-fuel-tank-junior-power-supply/

If it were me, I'd go: Wah, Distortion, Chorus, Delay, Looper. As to power supplies, try the cheaper one and see if it has any issues in your home, if it does, return it and go more up market. Just make sure that you have enough headroom to add more pedals.

Yep, centre blocked, 335 types can still weigh in on the high side, especially if the block is something dense like maple. For proper light weight, you’ll want fully hollow, like a Casino. Even then, check it out, if you can (for the record my Casino Coupé is feather light, even with a Bigsby).

Well, that looks perfectly fine to my eyes. It looks to have a slightly reduced body compared to a 335, which is a good, ergonomic thing in my book. The quick release tailpiece is really sensible too.

Excellent, however…

It’s what we do, when we can, just like we do on ‘the other forum’ .

And he’s in! A Trademark 60, great amp, I’ve owned 2 and I still can’t fathom why I sold them.

Following an interview with Rick Beato, I've started following Mateus Asato...

Leave it as is and let it show its battle scars and age. However, part of me wants to see the top stripped à la Mick Ronson.

Look at that - small world.

Maybe something like the Yamaha THR5 or the Positive Grid Spark.

Agreed, Cadillac Green is one of Gretsch's stand out colours. I don't normally like gold hardware, but I came very close to buying a 5420 in that livery a few years back. Fortunately (it wouldn't have been a popular purchase on the home front at the time), when I went back, it had sold.

I love a Gretsch.

https://jedistar.com/ideal/ https://reverb.com/item/1075242-ideal-hollow-body-339-electric-guitar-mij https://spinditty.com/instruments-gear/Japanese-Manufacturers-of-Made-In-Japan-Badged-Guitars-from-1950-to-1980

A quick internet search revealed some information. Made in he ‘70s, probably by Fujigen. There’s a 335 type Ideal on Reverb for around £150.

I bought one of these carved/contoured bodies from Guitarbuild. https://www.guitarbuild.co.uk/products/tc-carved-top-contours-ss?_pos=3&_psq=carved&_ss=e&_v=1.0 Providing you don’t go mad, maybe just using coarse sand paper, it’s hard to go too far on any body. Takes time and extra effort though.

Hmm, interesting. I’ve not come across the lower side of a slab body causing issues. As it sounds and plays great, I’d be inclined to mod. However, this kills any decent resale potential, should that ever become a requirement. Maybe buy an unfinished, replacement body and shape it to your needs.