Dad3353

Good afternoon, @Andyibanez, and ... Plenty to read and amuse you here, and lots to learn and share.

See here, maybe..? Chordify...

Good afternoon, @Axe2Grind, and ... Plenty to read and amuse you here, and lots to learn and share.

Good afternoon, @ryan1mcq, and ... Plenty to read and amuse you here, and lots to learn and share.

Are the strings new, or fresh..? Have you changed them..? If they are old (depends on usage, but over a year old I'd call 'old'...), they may be due for a change. When changing strings, my tip is to be careful when winding onto the tuners to get the first wind near the bottom of the hole, then make sure that the next few winds start from the bottom of the post, crossing over the first wind. This helps block the winds in place. Once wound onto the tuner post (three or four turns is quite enough...), I tune the guitar up to pitch, lay the guitar on the bench (or table, or on the bed...), then take each string in turn and gently lift the guitar up by this one string. It's perfectly safe; the string won't break, but it will bed down at each end fully. I then tune up to pitch. Always tune 'up', never 'down' to the note. If the note is too sharp, tune down to flat and bring it back up. I use any tuner (headstock, PC-hosted DAW, whatever, but cross-check with fifth-fret and octave harmonics from string to string. I start with the 'A' string, and check it again once all the others are done. It helps that I use Elixir strings, which hold their tuning much, much longer than others I have tried (for years I used Fender Bullets; Elixir now get my vote on all my guitars...). I have never had a tuner (machine head...) issue, ever, on any guitar, vintage, old or new; maybe I've just been lucky. I'm not maniac, either, about tuning to 1% precision; fretted temperament inaccuracy is greater than that, anyway. I sound out my chords, and if they sound OK, the tuning is OK. The tuner is a guide, but it's one's ear that has the final decision, not the needle. Yes, a decent set-up is always the starting point, and a competent guitar tech can do the job, but it would be very useful to learn the basics oneself (how to adjust intonation, String saddle height, check for neck bow, when (and when not...) to adjust a truss rod etc...). I doubt that the moderate temperatures we experience in these climes would affect tuning, or the guitar set-up, to any noticeable degree, but a set-up is always a good starting point. Better value than a set of tuners, anyway, as a first move. Hope this helps. Douglas

Ibanez tuners are made by Gotoh. To change, it would be best if the replacement tuners used the same screw configuration as the originals. The precision of tuning depends to a great extent on the 'ratio' (number of turns it takes to increase string tension...). The 'flagship' Gotoh tuner that would probably be a straight swap for your originals would be the Gotoh SGL510, which has the same screw positioning and barrel diameter. These tuners are used on some of the higher-end Ibanez guitars such as the George Benson models. There are a few cosmetic variations of these tuners, concerning the 'look' of the tuner buttons; that's a matter of personal preference. Thomann stock these tuners; the price for a set is £60 currently; they have a gear ratio of 18:1. There is no real reason why your present tuners don't give stable tuning. Fine tuning is also a function of other factors, such as the nut material and quality, the way the strings have been wound on and pre-tensioned, the correct tuning procedure (always tune upwards; if you're too sharp, tune flat and come up to pitch from there, never the opposite...) and more. Ibanez make excellent guitars, in all of their price ranges; you may find that swapping tuners does not, in itself, solve your issues. Just sayin'. Is this a new guitar..? How much experience with electric guitars in general do you have..? Hope this helps; meanwhile... Have a great day Douglas

I've had a look at the Justin modules, and they look to be exactly what you need. I wouldn't worry too much about 'worship' for now; you'll be able to play lots of them soon enough, as many do, indeed, use those three basic chords (D, A and E...). Without the lyrics, all songs are simply Music, anyway. If you need a good one to start off with, using only D and A, I'd suggest 'Give Peace A Chance', which is also part of the Justin module. Do you have a reliable method for tuning the guitar..? That would be very important, from the beginning.

@chongjasmine... You didn't give your location; to judge from using '$', I guess you're not in the UK. That's not a problem, of course, but some replies may not be relevant or applicable. Where are you, please..? The ideal way to learn from the very start is with a few lessons, face to face, with a competent teacher. I understand that this may not be possible or practical, but it's still the best recommendation. Having said that, it's not necessary to start 'strumming' at all. Get the chord shape right ('D' is, perhaps, the easiest...), and lightly brush the strings, from the bottom string (the low 'E' nearest your head...) to the top string. As you brush, listen to each string, and practice getting the fretted strings sounding clearly. Remove the left hand from the strings, fret the chord again and brush again. Do this for a while (not long; just a few minutes...), then give your hands a rest. Choose another chord ('A' is fine, but 'E' may be easier; it doesn't really matter too much for now...), and repeat the light, slow brushing from string to string, listening to be sure that each string is sounding clearly. A few minutes, and rest. As a rule, it's best to practice in short, regular sessions, rather than long ones. Two 10-minute sessions, each and every day, are much better than one whole hour once a week. 'Little and often' is the key. Playing a guitar does not have to mean playing every string. It's not necessary to 'strum' all 6 strings, all the time (although it is often done, it's not a 'rule'...). You can lightly strum, for a 'D' chord, for instance, only the top 4 strings. With a 'D' chord, the bottom string (the low 'E'...) is not, harmonically, part of the chord, and should not be played, or muted so as not to sound. You will have difficulties with this, and other chords, if you're beginning, so don't try to do things that you think are right; do only the things that will make you a better player. This will involve patience, and some concentration on your part. It seems, at first, as if no progress is being made, but be assured: every guitarist started out in exactly the same way. Go slowly, very slowly; that's the fastest way to get to the destination. Hope this helps; others may have more advice or tips.

Very nice, if a tad 'retro', maybe..? T'would have been huge in the early '60s. Spot on, for the production. If I was to suggest anything, I'd want an evolution from 1'30, to come back to the main theme later. Otherwise, well done Hank Clive.

Our work here is done.

OK, then; you are worthy. I hereby dub you as 'Fit For Investment'. Now off you potter to the shops, and fetch me half-a-dozen eggs whilst you're out, if you would, please..? The money's in the tin on the mantlepiece.

No, no direct experience ith these, but intrigued to learn from whence comes the inspiration. It it for travelling light..? An amp of some kind is required, unless using them simply with headphones or 'Voxplug'-style amps. In that, they are successful, and almost silent, which allows late-night practice, for instance. The tone is subject to the quality of the amping, of course, and really shines with a PA system, or FRFR amp/cab (little chance of feedback, which is a 'plus'...). Lightweight, of course, but are acoustic guitars really heavy..? Useful kit, with the promise of Yamaha quality (they make nothing bad, from their whole range of industries...), which can inspire confidence. All-in-all, an excellent choice in that style of instrument, if one has a need for that style of instrument. Is that your case..? A discerning public demands to know.

It's not quite clear what exactly you're wanting, to me at least. I had the impression that you wanted 2 or 3 units, identical, that a student would not have to programme. He/she just presses the button for 'Clean' and gets 'Clean'. A button for 'Grit', one more for 'Disto'. What else is to be 'brought to the table', without losing this ease of use..? Any two-button solution implies programming the patches beforehand, either by yourself, or by the student. Any 'stomp-box' solution implies three buttons, at least, dedicated to the three uses defined above. Any more buttons could be useful (Delay, Reverb, Chorus... Whatever...). The Dapper Mini 4 does it all, except for the foot-switch to go from Overdrive to Disto (it's a toggle switch, to be done by hand...). The only one that really fits your bill is the Zoom G5N, at around the same price as the Boss. This has four stomp switches, which will do the job, and is also a multi-Fx able to switch patches like a two-button unit. It has the PSU supplied, which is a Good Thing. There are other stompboxes that fit the bill, from £500-£2000 and more, but that's a bit overkill, surely..?

Not quite. 'One ring to rule them all...'; how to change setting with just one stomp, to mute, or get a clean sound, eh..? Plus the power supply to the four (why four..?) pedals. A multi-Fx is the way to go, for simplicity and functionality, but complex stuff can't be made by magic into 'dead simple'. The stuff cited is about as close as it gets; your pupils will just have to deal with it (or forego the Fx, and have just a Tubescreamer clone...). Just my tuppence-worth. Disclaimer : I'm a drummer.

That's a lot of money to not have real 'stomp box' functionality. One still has to step from one Fx to another. The first I found on the Thomann site with a button for each Fx is the Mooer Red Truck, slightly less expensive, and with 'real' stomp box layout and simplicity. Far less expensive, and easy to use, is the Valeton Dapper Mini 4 Fx strip; this has the inconvenience of having to switch manually between Overdrive and Distortion. The Mooer GE100 and Valeton GP100 will both do what the Boss does, at less cost (the Valeton maybe a little tougher than the Mooer, if they're going to get mistreatment...). Hope this helps; good luck with the project.

Not a Fender, that's certain. What are you doing in Ukraine..? Не Fender, это точно. Что вы делаете в Украине..?

I don't understand guitars. I bought it on a local website (Ukraine). The internal electrical equipment seems unfamiliar to me, because the inscriptions and logos on it seem to be from the USSR. However, when I compare its appearance to other similar wings online, I see some similarities. A photo https://ru.files.fm/u/z7kmhrc47

There are sometimes inscriptions on the inside of guitars. If you can get a light in there, and a mirror (or endoscope..?) it might be worth trying your luck..?

You'll be better served posting your full pedal chain, so that an informed opinion may be given (what guitar/amp, maybe, too..?). Over to you...

It's a JHS copy of a Gibson Marauder, made in the '70s. Here's the original Gibson model...

Sorry, but the link doesn't work, so we can't see the photo. Post it again, please (just drag the photo into your post, that should be enough...)..?

Good evening, @merello, and ... Plenty to read and amuse you here, and lots to learn and share. Your secret is safe with us.

Good evening, @emzella , and ... Plenty to read and amuse you here, and lots to learn and share. You will want an electro-acoustic if you intend to play in public, amplified, either by your own amp (there are specific amps made for this purpose...) or by sending the guitar signal to a PA system. It is also a useful feature if you intend to record the guitar, at home or in a studio. You don't need an electro-acoustic if you have no intention of any of that. An acoustic (with no electronics...) can serve for any of the previous uses, with an external microphone; this is another 'rabbit hole', though. An acoustic is fine, simple, and will have easily enough 'features' to contend with whilst learning. The model pictured is from a reputable maker (Tanglewood; I have one myself, as my 'go to' guitar...). There's no need to pay for facilities you'll not need; the difference in price would be better spent choosing a model higher up in the range. If you're beginning, I would highly recommend finding a decent tutor for a few lessons from the outset; a lot of time and trouble will be saved. It's a worthwhile investment. If you intend to leave home with the instrument, invest, also, in a suitable gig-bag, or hard case. Ask again if there are any other issues the Forum can help you with, and Good Luck on your adventure.

I can't think of any reason why the string should snap at that particular point. Could be down to bad luck; I've never come across this specific issue. Are these the same make of strings..? Maybe try a 'G' from a different souce, just to see..? It won't affect the tone to any notable degree. Other than that, it's only down to the usual suspects, as remarked above, of being sure there's no sharp corners anywhere along the string support points. Why break at the headstock, though..? Mystery, sorry.

The truss rod adjuster is at the heel of the neck. It's probably easiest to unbolt the neck to get access. There's a photo of how it's done on this 'Fret dress' page... Burns Marquee Fret Dress And Set-Up ... Hope this helps.