Dad3353

Good afternoon, @IanNeedsHelp, and ... ... Plenty to read and amuse you here, and lots to learn and share. S'not easy, nor very reliable, giving estimated value through a set of photos; doubly so when well away from 'local' markets. Here's a rough guide of what I would value these at; others may well have very different opinions... Paramount Les Paul copy (chambered, which is quite unusual...) : Looks to be in good condition, not a 'known' name, so not really collectable. I'm a particular fan of semi-acoustic guitars, so would pay a little more than the 100€ or so I think this is worth. A little more still if there's a fitted hard case (this will apply to them all, so...). Dark green Marlin guitar : Absolute opposite of 'my' style of instrument, and active, to judge from the LED's and battery cover. Missing its vibrato plate, and just a little 'scruffy-looking'. Assuming that it's all in good order, and the electronics work, an enthusiast could pay maybe 200€ or so, maybe more if it's a unique or rare model. I've seen one or two advertised at over 1000€, but no idea if they were really sold at that price. White Fender : I'm going to pass on this one; a Fender expert would have a far better estimation (assuming it to be genuine; there are many very good fakes out there...). I've never seen pickup covers like that, but the serial n° suggests a date of early '80s. It may be valuable, but would need proper inspection to know. The green acoustic is a budget guitar, and looks to be in good condition. I'd value that between 50-100€. The last one, the Grote archtop, is a Chinese-made 'jazz box', with a P90-style pickup. It looks clean; I'd pay around 100€ for a guitar like that. There, that's my tuppence-worth. Subject to correction, completion and/or contradiction from others. Hope this helps. Douglas

I rehearsed in a flat at Crystal Palace, back in the late '60s; it was impossible to not get radio from the amps (There's a whopping great transmitter there...) We tried tinfoil and stuff, but to no avail. We moved the rehearsals to Shepperton in the end.

Ah, no; that would be slightly different. (and it's Boss GT-1...). You can bypass the Peavey pre-amp altogether if you plug the guitar into the GT-1 i/p, and the GT-1 o/p into the Fx Return of the Peavey (and so nothing at all into the Peavey guitar i/p socket...) . I'm not sure why you'd be getting 'weird noises' from the usual set-up of guitar, GT-1, Peavey, but... If you say so... Try the method above; no harm can come of it, either to the guitar, the Boss or the Peavey. Hope this helps.

I'm not sure I've understood correctly. Is this the Boss GT1 guitar fx unit..? If so, you can plug the guitar into the amp, plug the Fx Send into the GT1 i/p, plug the GT1 o/p into Fx Return and you're good to go; no danger to the amp (What amp, by the way..?). Is that what you're wanting to do..?

Ask Thomann; someone there will measure one up and reply. I had dimensional questions concerning insides of guitar cases; they were only to pleased to get me the answers I needed. (Although vibratos are still the Work of the Devil ...).

No, I'm a moderator here, trying to see the sense of 'local' without any notion of location. Still, if it's a secret...

'Local'..? Local to where..? I'm in France, for instance; local to me..?

Intonation is, I would suggest, a bit over-blown, really. How many acoustic guitars have adjustable saddles..? Many arch-tops have movable bridges that are slanted as best as is needed for this compensation. Nothing wrong with individual string adjustment, of course, but I doubt the real effectiveness when playing 'normally', for most ears. If it's just for show, why not, but a pencil as a bridge held in place with an elastic band works, too. As for vibratos, of any sort... An invention of Beelzebub. I'll have no truck with 'em.

I did a quick Google search for 'bc rich slipknot guitar' and got some results.

Create a ' Report'; that'll get the attention of the Admins here. ('Report' can be accessed from the 'three little dots' button, top right of every post...).

When this sister site was created, the Users inscribed were copied across from Basschat, with their same passwords. The link was then cut, so the sites are since independent. Changing the Basschat pwd does not affect the Guitarchat pwd, so 'Yes, the pwd for here should be changed, too.' Hope this helps.

Looking at the back of those two models, I can't see any difference in ferrule placing or spacing that would affect such a change of bridge. I don't understand what the advantage of the vintage bridge could possible be, but that's another debate. No guarantee, as I've not the two guitars on hand physically, but it's easy enough to find out once the 'new' (in fact 'old', really...) bridge is lined up. I would add that I'm of the 'If it ain't busted, don't fix it' school, and I'd rather the better-designed 'Player' bridge, but... Whatever... Hope this helps.

Bert Weedon (Hofner Committee...)..?

Bo Diddley (Cigar Box...)..?

Willie Nelson (Martin N-20...)..?

Jeff Beck (Fender Stratocaster...)..?

Alvin Lee (Gibson 335...)..?

It can't be done easily. It's possible, but complex electronically, and unlikely to give desired result. Passive and active don't mix well, I'm afraid. Sorry.

Nah, it's all in the fingers.

All of the above is assuming the use of IEM, or having a decent-enough foldback monitor system on stage. Small groups/pub bands don't always have this luxury; not all PA systems will accept much more than voice. Just sayin'.

There's only one candidate that comes to mind : the Moen GEC9 2nd Edition... I'm not sure what MIDI brings to the party for stomp-box pedals. If you're not married to those specific pedals, a more flexible system would be a good rack multi-Fx, such as the G-Force, which can be controlled with a MIDI controller, or go down the modelling rabbit-hole. Just my tuppence-worth; hope this helps.

OK, yes, it can be done, but the shenanigans involved in getting the two technologies to cooperate together is not simple. Is it worth it..? Unless there's some compelling driver behind it, I'd suggest that going either all active or all passive is the way to go. No direct experience to offer, but gen up on the pitfalls before committing. What's missing from the stock bridge p-u..? Is there really no passive that could solve that issue..? Just my tuppence-worth; hope it helps.

Good evening, @Dave74, and ... ... Plenty to read and amuse you here, and lots to learn and share.

Good evening, @raven1313, and ... ... Plenty to read and amuse you here, and lots to learn and share.

If the Hartke doesn't fit your needs, then you have odd needs. It will do looping very well indeed, and is a known, successful pedal. Not too expensive; well within your budget. Look no further. Just my tuppence-worth.