Dad3353

29 minutes ago, Gr1mm said:

I looked for the name of this model on the Internet, but I did not find it, I will be grateful if someone answers...

I've posted the question on the PRS Forum...

Updated List of PRS Pickup Specs ...

... We'll see what, if any, reply we get. 

27 minutes ago, knirirr said:

My reasons for having them are that I like the tone (I mostly play jazz) and find them comfortable to play - as you say, I'd not have expected them to cause any issues on a guitar based on a design from that era.

They are exactly the strings you need, then. Now to obtain the guitar to match..! 

Just now, knirirr said:

These are the strings:

https://www.stringsdirect.co.uk/products/pyramid-gold-13-56-pure-nickel-flatwound-guitar-strings-true-vintage-gauge

 

They shouldn't cause any issues on any decent guitar, I think.

These strings I would expect to find on an archtop 'jazz-box' type guitar, with a 'trapeze'-type tailpiece or similar. They would, though, work on any electric guitar, such as a Les Paul or similar. They are heavy, compared to modern players notions, but would have been standard issue on any guitar bought on the '50s or '60s, and cause no problems at all. They are certainly not the cause of failure of your guitar. I suppose you have a reason for wanting strings like these..? Are you aiming for a 'George Benson', 'vamping' sound..? 

7 minutes ago, knirirr said:

I think I'd prefer to have a refund and buy something else better made and able to handle heavy strings.

A shame, as other than this (and the truss rod which slid out when I was adjusting it) this guitar sounds and feels very good.

From following this mini-saga, it's clear to me that this is a case for refund, and choice of another guitar, which, whilst still 'sounding and feeling good', will not fall apart in your hands whilst still under guarantee. All ordinarily-made guitars can withstand heavy strings (Our Eldest has been using light top, heavy bottom on all of his guitars, with never an issue...). Of course if you're fitting bass strings to it (they may be too long, so not worth trying..!), you'd be better off with a bass. If you just want a lower tone, with thick strings, get a baritone guitar. No guitar should have truss-rod problems, nor  bridges pulling out. Get your refund and invest in another.  

My natural bent is towards archtop or semi-hollow guitars, so my choice would be easy. I did, however, look at some U-tube reviews of these two models, and the Les Paul copy comes out of it slightly better. The weight of most Les Pauls is a deal-breaker for many, but this copie is only 3.3 kg, apparently, so could be considered. The finish, especially on the inside of the semi-hollow, was shocking on the model reviewed, so I'd want the option of returning it if it looked like the one filmed. So, basically I'd choose the double cut, but would send it back  for the single cut if the finish let it down. I don't think there's anything in it from a sound or playing point of view; it's down to aesthetics, I'd say. Hope this helps (but that's unlikely...). 

11 minutes ago, jdom84 said:

...I hope this clears things up.

It does indeed. I'm assuming that you already have an audio interface, but don't wish to use it for listening to your guitar. OK, that's a choice. From the link you posted, I don't see any difference, except that it cannot be used for recording without an interface, but, if you just want to play guitar through it into headphones, it'll work. The Mooer PE100 will work, too, or the Valeton Dapper 4-Fx Strip, or others, but none are analogue. 

I still think that this 'issue' is being overthunk; start off with a decent audio interface, of the 'Focusrite' type (I use Tascam gear; there are many others, at all price points...), and use any guitar pedal on the input to get tones, if you don't want to use Vst's. It's about as simple as it gets, and gives guaranteed Good Results, every time, with no fuss. Monitoring can come from the headphone o/p of the interface, so you can hear what's going on before recording anything. I can see no downside to this; it ticks all the boxes, as far as I can see. You're always going to need such an interface anyway, for recording into a PC. What's wrong with doing things this way..? 

3 hours ago, randythoades said:

I would suggest using one of the Joyo or Tech 21 amp simulators (there are several flavours to choose from depending on your amp preferences). I use the Joyo American Sound version (Tweed) which I slightly preferred to the Tech 21 Blonde.

Although you mention analog, I would be surprised if many of the amp simulators with IR are anything but digital anyway, but I agree that I like to have knobs to twist. You can add reverb etc in your DAW.

The Joyo ones already have cab simulation built in and mine records very well. I have tried the VST route and was just too many options for my tiny mind, so went back to hardware. Mine was about £35 new, but you can get them for less on eBay. The upside is that it also doubles as a backup for gigs, or even the basis of an ampless setup.

Ah, if a pedal will work, would it need to have a headphone socket, to hear what's being played without the DAW (or whatever...)..? If so, there's the answer. I use a Boss Fender Deluxe pedal for 'core' tones, usually, which does a fine job. Is it analogue..? Who cares, as it's going to my computer anyway.  

You haven't told us what you'll be using as a recording device. A PC with a DAW..? A cassette tape recorder..? Your 'smartphone'..? Revox reel-to-reel..? 

If it's going into a PC, it'll be digital anyway, whatever you do, so a decent audio interface would be a starting point, a DAW (there are free ones; I use Reaper, which can be indefinitely trialled for free...), and any of numerous free amp/cab simulator Vst plug-ins. I wouldn't suggest buying anything at all until you've at least tried this simple and direct solution, which works well for thousands of folk. Hope this helps. 

21 minutes ago, knirirr said:

If it really is bad then perhaps a warranty claim might be in order.

But, I'd rather fix it if I can.

If this guitar is still under guarantee, I'd not hesitate a second in returning it. It's, in that case, quite clearly a manufacturing failure, and I wouldn't trust it to be the only one if this was bought new recently. Just my opinion, of course. Messing about with it yourself will, naturally, void any warranty it may have, so choose what to do wisely, but quickly. Hope this helps.

36 minutes ago, knirirr said:

This looks like a bit of a nuisance - the tailpiece is coming out on the low-E side...

I would also suggest getting the advice of a good luthier (as posted above...). I wouldn't expect even a very heavy set of strings to have this effect; I imagine that it's rather due to a bad implementation of the design in a cheap guitar. I wouldn't try to 'bodge' it (at least until there's been a competent person to see it...), and would certainly affirm that wood glue is not the answer; that will do nothing, on its own, to help things here. Let's see if a more experienced eye can suggest a remedy, hoping that it's simpler than I fear. It's not looking good. 

Tiktok..? Instagram..? Facebook..? No chance; no chance at all that I'll entertain for a moment clicking on that. Sorry. 

1 hour ago, Tarek-UK said:

 

The same remark as the other video... Use your 'phone to play a slow blues drum track (I'm sure there's plenty available online somewhere...), and play to that, respecting the timing. The slower the better; these things can't be rushed. Very gradually (every couple of weeks or so..?), step up the tempo (just a little...), and play at that new speed. Every now and then (every couple of months or so..?), go back to the slow tempo and repeat the whole process, increasing very slowly the tempo. This is the way to achieving fluid, fluent guitar licks, runs, melodies... Music. You will need a big bucket of Patience, but it will pay off handsomely. Hope this helps.  

1 hour ago, Tarek-UK said:

I am new here. If you all can kindly let you know your thoughts on my guitar playing - I will be grateful...

Only one comment, and that is to get used to playing a piece (any piece...) very slowly at first, in tempo, using a metronome (your 'phone will be able to serve as metronome whilst practicing, I think...). Your playing in this video is far too fast for your ability, which will not improve until you get the timing right. The fastest way to learn how to play fast is to play slowly. I can't tell if you're playing by ear, or from a sheet of music; either way, slow down. It may not seem to be so satisfying at first, but trust me when I state that, by playing with the correct timing slowly, the playing at the correct tempo will come so much faster. Do not rush into playing the guitar; it's a journey for a lifetime, and you've all the time in the world before you. Spend the early stages practicing correctly and the results will come about all the faster. Hope this helps. 

1 hour ago, PRC said:

@Dad3353 You can check it out on YouTube too: 

One day I will (maybe...) understand, but that day is not today. 

Good afternoon, @Tom Gregory Partner, and ...

... Plenty to read and amuse you here, and lots to learn and share.  

No instagram here, sorry. 

Good afternoon, @Fluffmatic, and ...

... Plenty to read and amuse you here, and lots to learn and share. 

6 minutes ago, Jose Garcia said:

... when I'm improvising on the guitar...

Improvising over what..? A known song, a jazz 'standard', your own composition, a free-for-all jam session..? 

Personally, I favour the differences, and find use for most styles of instrument. For sentimental reasons, I have several arch-top and semi-hollow guitars and basses, but solid-bodies figure too in the 'stable'. I'm really not fussy about what are, to me, minor details such as scale length, type or number of pick-ups, nut width etc; I adapt what I play to the instrument, or select the instrument depending on what I feel like playing. I have a 'go to' Xavière guitar on hand (it's rather like a Thinline Tele Deluxe...), but my Hofner Verithins, and Comittee get regular outings, as does my Samick 335-style guitar and Daisy Rock 12-string (and the acoustics, of course...). I could get by with only one, but why be restricted when there's so much variety out there..?

3 minutes ago, Juan K said:

I have it at the end of a homemade compilation cassette, made around 1989, and I am not able to know who plays this.

 

https://1drv.ms/u/s!Au6Gmkhl5v4IgcAaqaPe2u7pyp0yTQ?e=xhuFrV

 

Thanks in advance

Just a guess, but that sounds like Gilmour, playing a demo version of a future Floyd song. The 'intro' lick is a rip-off of a Fairport Convention song : 'Jack of Diamonds', on their first album, but that's not Richard Thompson playing there. 

1 hour ago, Woodinblack said:

Do the bolt on epiphone eb0s have an embossed serial number on them? I know none of the ones I have seen have, they just had a sticker.

Why would you make a copy of an epiphone? These are next to nothing new, if you were going to make a copy you would make one of a gibson.

You may well be right, of course, although a sticker with a serial number would be normal, I'd say, rather than no number at all. There are copies at all levels, too, not just high-end stuff. Genuine or fake, though, as long as it plays well... 

1 hour ago, fingers1 said:

Is the difference between G Major 1-4-5 progression and the G Blues 1-4-5 progression, the use of 7th chords and pentatonic blues notes when soloing?

Essentially, yes. 

14 minutes ago, fingers1 said:

Guthrie trapp - playing over 1-4-5 chord changes, trying to understand it.

I'm looking at it now, and I'm having trouble following along. I've been playing guitar for well over a half-century. Maybe it's not you, but the video that's not too clear..? I'd suggest looking at a few other tutors do it, and come back to this one now and again. The penny will drop, but not by crushing your head against his lack of clarity. It's Good Stuff, but not well presented, and especially not for novices. 

12 minutes ago, fingers1 said:

Does it matter that the song is a blues in G?

Again, an odd question, to me. You'll be using the chords G, C and D7 quite a lot; the remark concerning the 'D7' is appropriate here, the '7th' concerned being 'C', not 'C#". Have a look at this tutorial video for some ideas, maybe..?