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Dad3353

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Posts posted by Dad3353

  1. 1 hour ago, Matt P said:

    hello, I saw the warning over on Basschat about security and promptly replaced my password, i then signed back into Basschat using the new password (on pc and my phone)

     

    when i then came onto this site my new password didn't work (i managed to lock myself out for 14 minutes!) i've just managed to log back in using my old password (the original Basschat one)

     

    are the passwords shared across the two sites or are they separate? (do I need to create a new password for Guitarchat as well?

     

    Matt

     

    When this sister site was created, the Users inscribed were copied across from Basschat, with their same passwords. The link was then cut, so the sites are since independent. Changing the Basschat pwd does not affect the Guitarchat pwd, so 'Yes, the pwd for here should be changed, too.' Hope this helps. B|

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  2. Looking at the back of those two models, I can't see any difference in ferrule placing or spacing that would affect such a change of bridge. I don't understand what the advantage of the vintage bridge could possible be, but that's another debate. No guarantee, as I've not the two guitars on hand physically, but it's easy enough to find out once the 'new' (in fact 'old', really...) bridge is lined up. I would add that I'm of the 'If it ain't busted, don't fix it' school, and I'd rather the better-designed 'Player' bridge, but... Whatever... Hope this helps. :|

  3. There's only one candidate that comes to mind : the Moen GEC9 2nd Edition...

     

    fmurOX8.png

     

    I'm not sure what MIDI brings to the party for stomp-box pedals.

     

    If you're not married to those specific pedals, a more flexible system would be a good rack multi-Fx, such as the G-Force, which can be controlled with a MIDI controller, or go down the modelling rabbit-hole. Just my tuppence-worth; hope this helps. 

     

     

  4. 4 hours ago, raven1313 said:

    ...The question is, is it worth it. are emg pic-ups that much better.

     

    OK, yes, it can be done, but the shenanigans involved in getting the two technologies to cooperate together is not simple. Is it worth it..? Unless there's some compelling driver behind it, I'd suggest that going either all active or all passive is the way to go. No direct experience to offer, but gen up on the pitfalls before committing. What's missing from the stock bridge p-u..? Is there really no passive that could solve that issue..? Just my tuppence-worth; hope it helps. rWNVV2D.gif

  5. If the Hartke doesn't fit your needs, then you have odd needs. It will do looping very well indeed, and is a known, successful pedal. Not too expensive; well within your budget. Look no further. Just my tuppence-worth.

     

     

  6. Sorry, no idea at all. The '60s was a strange period for lutherie (maybe it was the dope..? ;) ). Everyone tried to come up with something 'modern', using as many gadgets as could be crammed into the slab, and with no idea of what 'ergonomics' meant. Most fell by the wayside; a few became 'collectable', but not many were used seriously in studios by musicians, really. Quirky; if it plays well, consider yourself to be one of the lucky ones and leave it there. Otherwise, be prepared for a long, long trek down many rabbit holes. xD

  7. It's a copy, I'd say, of the Ibanez Montclair Goldentone, from the early '60s. They had several different headstocks, back then, but it should have the 'Ibanez' logo on there. Here's a 'real' one, very similar...

     

    wmfrNd7.png

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