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See my reply to the other question, then. Good luck with the project.

As @Dad3353 says, just because you can, doesn't mean you should. The speakers may or not cope with the power going through it (and I also remember old Carlsbro PAs being basic workhorses rather than particularly good), but it might not sound very good. You might just get the sound of your power amp coming through, rather than the Marshall sound which relies on the speaker to impart some colouration or break up. As @Dad3353 says. Try it and see, but start looking out for some nice Celestion speaker to replace them in the future.

Thanks for the help, planning on putting a 50watt marshal head into it that won't be put past 5. Hopefully get to something close to a decent sound out of it, cheers.

Impedance is a rather nominal notion, and 'exact' figures are fairly meaningless, really. The actual impedance is only for a specific frequency and power input. There is no noticeable difference between 8 and 8.3; treat is as 8 and you'll be fine. Would it be suitable for guitar..? The answer, I'm afraid, is 'a lemon; suck it and see'. If it sounds OK, it's OK. Be aware, however, that typical PA stuff, 'back in the day', was not rated highly for power handling, as only vocals from a modest amp were expected. Don't connect a 100W Marshall amp turned up to 11, as it won't last long, I'd say. Vintage gear can be nice, if played in vintage manner. Watkins Westminster amps from that period are now collector pieces, but their 17 watts won't fill a stadium..! Go easy on your find and enjoy it for what it does, not what you think it should do.

Looks completely fantastic.

Well, on the final furlong. Basically, the finishing is finished and now just have to do the shielding, fretwork, electrics and final assembly/setup. The final stages of ebony sand-only and alder/maple Tru-oil slurry-and-buff is coming out nicely:

Understatement.

To the back hatch. You will note that there is always a bit of madness in my method when it comes to guitar and bass builds. Does that rebate rout above cut into the ebony strip? And doesn't that mean that the black line will be broken with an alder hatch when it's fitted?? Well...yes...and no. Yes it would if I didn't add a matching strip to the hatch I made my normal paper template with some A4 and a fingernail: Cut out with a scalpel, I then had a template for the wood that I could double check fitted properly into the rebate, and also a reverse template so I could choose a 'sympathetic' grain pattern from my various alder offcuts. This would probably work: So next job was to cut out the hatch - a teeny bit oversize - and add a matching ebony strip: To fit the hatch, I usually start at one of the curves and sand/check the radius repeatedly until it fits the rebate exactly, and then progressively sand the overhang from there at one side or the other to progressively create the close fit all the way round. It takes a while because you don't want to over-sand anywhere! But eventually, it's done: And the ebony strip lines up! Next step is stringing it up for Alex to be able to play it while I fettle the shape of the neck profile, and then I can start the final sanding and start on the finish