randythoades

This is a repeat of the same advice given on another of your videos (depending on which one you look back on for replies...) Difficult to offer advice on what to improve as we all like to hear something different, but in all honesty, practice with a metronome... You are playing things which fit under your fingers but not necessarily in time with each other. A simple metronome or drum beat to fit too will help enormously.

Difficult to offer advice on what to improve as we all like to hear something different, but in all honesty, practice with a metronome... You are playing things which fit under your fingers but not necessarily in time with each other. A simple metronome or drum beat to fit too will help enormously.

Looks beautiful! (The Hofner, not the delivery guy)...

But the OP is wanting to produce a collapsible travel electric, which I am obviously missing the point on. If you were going to borrow amps then you could borrow a guitar too if necessary, although the modelling box into PA does make a lot more sense. I do like the idea of a modular guitar, being able to swap out pickup modules and electrics would be really cool, going from a standard tele setup to double humbuckers would be good and certainly save space for those that have multiple guitars for different applications.

I can't really help in explaining the time signature etc but it may be helpful to use one of the apps on your phone to slow the track down to half speed as it gives you much more chance to play along and really listen to those parts in detail. If you can play along at half speed then gradually build up the speed. As @Dad3353 has mentioned in several posts previously.... if you want to play fast, then play slow.

I like the idea of a modular guitar definitely, would be very cool to have one guitar but be able to swap out single coil for humbuckers etc, or maple instead of rosewood neck when the whimsy takes you, but not sure why you would have one as a travel guitar. The nature of an electric guitar is that you would also need to carry an amplifier and cables, thus negating and offsetting the benefits in a collapsible travel electric unless you were going down the Pignose route and having onboard amplification. A collapsible acoustic seems far more suitable like the Journey https://www.amazon.co.uk/Journey-Instruments-Solid-Travel-Guitar/dp/B088D7XQYT/ref=asc_df_B088D7XQYT/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=696385059988&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14344007345713079697&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1007360&hvtargid=pla-932629138513&psc=1&mcid=a0f3a2e1ed28380f9fa73423ec1942cd&gad_source=1 To answer your questions: I play country / southern rock / bluegrass and retro blues based rock (rockabilly and boogie styles). Yes, I would buy a modular electric guitar. I would like pickup/control configurations mainly. I don't think I could be bothered in changing necks on a regular basis.

I have been known to play hard rock and metal in the past and I agree with @Dad3353. Unless whammy use is something that you may want to make use of, then just stay away at first, they cause so many issues that even annoy experienced players. If you like the Ibanez superstrat shape then the Ibanez RGA 421 would possibly be a good option within that price range as it is similar but without the tremolo. https://www.kennysmusic.co.uk/ibanez-rg421-electric-guitar-mahogany-oil-b-stock-p8845/s8845?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=ibanez-rg421-mol-electric-guitar-mahogany-oil-b-stock-183159&utm_campaign=product%2Blisting%2Bads&cid=GBP&glCurrency=GBP&glCountry=GB&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw99e4BhDiARIsAISE7P9gOqAVfljXQw7RBuhADRJHV2_Q7jF0lkqQPX-lgh1B1dKpjYUq07AaAn6fEALw_wcB Otherwise any of the twin humbucker models like the Ibanez ART series, lots of the Cort, Harley Benton, Washburn, Squier, Epiphone models would suit. As @Dad3353 says, there should be no tuning problems with almost any modern guitar once set up properly (the shop might do this for you as part of their service, but otherwise budget another £40 or so for new strings and set up) For a more modern take on the telecaster, this would suit too. https://www.musicstore.com/en_GB/GBP/Squier-FSR-Affinity-Tele-HH-LRL-MOR-Metallic-Orange/art-GIT0058582-000?campaign=GShopping/GB&ProgramUUID=zDcKAQMERIYAAAGRngJqQrxk&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw99e4BhDiARIsAISE7P-0ydnBPY0IqtgOgZ7EPYnn11FNqXtrvm3Wr4uG_c-L6dbs_gRzEWcaAoPGEALw_wcB

No daft questions here, only daft answers. Everything is an unknown if you don't actually know it... In answer to your question, exactly the same, the pickup makes no difference at all, just use the same strings as you would have done previously and re-string in the same way.

I have not played that particular model, but I do have several other teles with various setups and pickups. Teles do great for the Rolling Stones end and do take overdrive well for general classic rock, but I don't think them great for distortion, a little too shrill and fizzy. I would do the hard rock thing with humbuckers rather than single coils personally. Those that use tele shaped guitars in that genre usually have humbuckers fitted. But for jazz, blues, country, pop and classic rock they really shine, so could be all the guitar that some people need. From what I understand, the new pickups lose a bit of the high end and are voiced a little warmer. This might work in your favour with more gain but wouldn't be my taste, I like the extra twang and snap to be available when I fancy it.

That is an unusual one, must have fallen with a proper smash, not heard of anyone breaking the plastic tuning button. As it is plastic, can you not glue it? The button itself does nothing except give your fingers purchase to twist it, the mechanism is the metal shaft itself. Or could you modify one of the ones you bought and make the hole bigger (or add some superglue when you fit to make it smaller). You could replace the whole tuning peg that is broken, the tuners themselves will be generic, even if the plastic buttons aren't. A generic set off Amazon etc will only be about £15. A quick google shows that they look like pretty standard tuning pegs, albeit with black plastic buttons rather than the more common all chrome. Or if you let us know your location, I am sure that one of the members in your area will have a 'parts bin' with all sorts of spare parts and could give you a spare machine head, maybe the shop where you bought it could do that too if you ask nicely.

I agree too

It completely depends on what you want to play, there is no right or wrong answer. You can learn on pretty much any guitar, the principle is the same. However, if you want to play classical guitar pieces then it makes sense to choose a nylon strung classical guitar, likewise, if you want to play folk or Americana then an acoustic guitar makes sense, or if Van Halen or Eric Clapton styles are the ultimate goal then an electric guitar (like a Squier stratocaster) makes more sense overall. You can happily play electric guitar unplugged, you don't NEED an amplifier, although it helps. As a very generalisation you will find that a decent beginner electric guitar will be physically easier to play than both a regular acoustic or classical guitar, but it will be harder to bring those skills across if you actually wanted to play the other. If you can answer that question then we can guide you in the most appropriate direction.

I will echo the above. Any reasonably popular guitar would be perfectly fine for a beginner, but personally I would stick with the ultra popular ones like the Squier. It will be easier to sell if you don't keep on with it, or hopefully, get more accomplished and want a better quality instrument (not that there is any need to sell, a Squier guitar, as well as many other 'cheap' guitars can stay with you well into semi pro level).

Yes, exactly.

I agree with this too. I have had both US and Jap models as well a custom shop one too, but get bored with instruments quickly so have always had a high turnover of buying and selling. I defaulted to Mexican in the end. I found the build quality just as good and to be honest I found it more consistent too. I have found some USA (and MIJ) built shockers and passed on them, but not found any poor instruments in the Mex range. Again, my suggestion is just choose the one you like the look of. The electronics can be changed easily and cheaply if necessary.

I know nothing about Jaguars specifically, but from my own experience, the Jap strats are 90% of the US instruments. I prefer some of the more vintage appointments (neck profile in particular and different colours) compared to the generally more modern US versions. But they are let down slightly from cheaper electronics. When I was gigging much more regularly I had electrics fail on 3 different Jap strats, and ended up replacing all the pots and pickups for US ones. But the build quality and feel was top notch. As a disclaimer, I actually really like basswood as a body type, I find it more airy and lighter than alder ones. So I would say, get one you like the look of (cause you can't really change that) and if you need to spend the extra £100 on replacing the wiring loom.

Probably like many on here, I echo @ezbass. I was taught a few basic chords and learned the pentatonic scale and a couple of riffs out of a book. The rest was just picking it up gradually over the years, asking questions of other players, watching live bands in pubs and seeing how the guitarist played. Nearly 40 years later I still don't know proper chord theory, or dozens of proper progressions or all the fancy scales. I know the major and minor chords, barre chords, major and minor pentatonics and I know the progressions that work in the music that I like. That is pretty much it. I can play almost everything that I want to play without too many problems, might not be the same as the record but where is the fun is that, it sounds like me! I learned the note pattern on the E and A strings and once you get the pattern of how those notes fall and relate to each other, you just repeat that knowledge onto the next string and so on, but starting from a different note. And everything below the 12th fret is just repeated above the 12th fret. As @Dad3353 says, just by going through things like that will just embed into your brain and you end up using it unconsciously. So to summarize. Don't get caught up in the 'you have to learn this, this and this...', just get to the point where you can play along to the songs you like and you will inevitably enjoy it more. Once you enjoy it, you want to play more, you gain experience, knowledge and muscle memory thus making something else a little easier when you want to learn something you can't currently do.

done

Although I don't have one, I have played quite a few and several friends have them. From a personal choice I would say that the mid range (Electromatic) range are excellent and none of my friends have complained about the Bigsby affecting tuning, but it isn't there for dive bombs, just a subtle warble. I prefer one without, but they don't seem to have any issues. I have also played a few of the slightly lower Streamliner ones and they were a bit hit and miss. A couple were really fantastic, and a couple were a bit sloppy build wise. If I was going to get one I would want to go and try them first in order to get a good one. On the plus side I really preferred the different slant that they put on in comparison to the Electromatics which are much more traditional. But I am not sure I would want one as my only guitar. They sound good and will cover a lot from indie jangle to rockabilly but I think they are too much of a niche look these days (and actually quite heavy for a hollow guitar).

Not sure it would be my style, but great concept, particularly for practice and for covers band players. Looks like they do strat styles too, so might be worth checking out. Just like the Line 6 Variax range but one step further. Does it work just off the app? Would it still work after the app or device is no longer supported? As far as I know the Variax line will work happily using the standard sounds even if it hasn't been updated.

As @ezbass says, they are probably playing the same chord (a chord is just made up of a fixed group notes), just on a different place on the neck. Each chord can be played in several different ways, using the same actual notes, but just using different position on the neck, the same as bottom string and top string are both the note of E so can be interchanged even though they sound different. This is one of the benefits of the guitar, the notes are repeated multiple times on the fretboard so a player can choose in which order he plays the notes of a particular chord, or just in a position that he favours. It is common with 2 guitars to play different positions (inversions), usually one in the lower registers and one higher up so that the sound doesn't get too muddy.

Looks vaguely like the PRS S2 Vela. Not a fan. As @Dad3353 says, if there isn't any innovation, what else does it bring to the party? I am definitely in camp F as far as guitar design goes so prefer something not LP looking, but rather than bringing out a re-hash of a mediocre design, why not try something new? I appreciate it is a pretty saturated market and they must get incredibly frustrated with people just wanting 80 year old designs and there must be people who hanker after 40 year old designs from the 80s. There is a retro market for the Japanese designs that had it covered back then and you can get a great Matsumoku built 80s model for a quarter of that price. Although I am not old enough to remember, just imagine the astonishment when the Flying V came out in the late 50s... what a thing to re-capture...!!

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True

Cordoba do a range of 'modern' shaped stage nylons. I looked at these too as I like the idea of a nylon acoustic, but also don't like the traditional look. They get great reviews but I didn't get round to trying one. https://cordobaguitars.com/stage/ I did try one of the Ibanez FRH though and it was very nice actually but I didn't like the balance when seated. It is really thin, just like an electric and it was nice to play standing, I just wasn't convinced by the seated ergonomics for me personally and I would play it seated for a lot of the time. But the neck felt closer in width to my regular guitar than it did a wide flat classical board, so it depends what you want it for. I also have a Fender Highway Acoustic which is also really thin, and again, don't like the seated position, but I play that standing for the most part and it is really comfortable. So maybe I should give a thinline nylon another go.