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Dad3353

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Everything posted by Dad3353

  1. Think carefully before committing to this. The current 5-way switch has been designed so that there is never a case of 'no pick-up selected'. With individual 'on/off' switches for each pick-up, that will no longer be the case. What will happen when all pick-ups are 'off'..? This could be problematic, with buzzing or odd noises going to the amp. A solution to this would be to ground the 'off' pick-up, but this will affect the other, selected, pick-ups. Not easy, I'd say; I'd go for replacement of the duff switch with a decent, reliable, new one. I can't think of a simple solution to having all pick-ups 'off'; maybe someone else has that gift..? Hope this helps.
  2. Maybe the best placed to answer your request is the maker..? Send a message to them, here... Oscar Schmidt Customer Support ... ... and see what reply you get..? Hope this helps. Douglas
  3. Have a look here ... Justin Guitar Lessons... There are dozens of tutors, course and lessons out there, but others here are using the lessons from the site linked, as complete beginners, and are pleased enough to continue with him. There are lessons for all styles, so try it out, maybe..? Hope this helps.
  4. Yes, the serial number first two digits give the year, so 1990 would be correct. Tanglewood exist since 1989, and their guitars were first made in Korea by Cort, for about ten years.
  5. Good morning, @Redt4, and ... ... Plenty to read and amuse you here, and lots to learn and share.
  6. Record it as best you can, then post it here. We'll work out what's happening. Over to you ...
  7. The only thing that I can think of, assuming that you're buying a guitar that you've chosen in a shop (so not online...), 'Are you happy with it, walking out of the door..?'. There's not that much to fuss about with a new guitar that feels good enough to buy. New strings don't need changing, nor frets polished, if it's already good in your hands. If you feel that it needs a set-up for you, after trying it out, maybe it's not 'The One'..? I'd spend more time listening to how it sounds, both acoustically and through an amp of your choosing, the comfort, the feeling that it projects to you. The most adjustment would be getting a comfortable strap sorted out, I'd say. Make sure that a suitable case is part of the deal, too, both for travelling (and taking it home..!) and for keeping it safe at home when not being played. If it feels right, ask what strings are already on it, and either note that, or buy a set for changing when it's due. It's true that I don't buy new, generally, but I worked for several years in a music shop, as a technician, and sold guitars, both acoustic and electric, with very little thought, nor need, for set-ups straight from the shop. At worst, an electro-acoustic might need a new battery, so get one fitted before taking possession. No need to over-think it, I'd say. Hope this helps. Douglas
  8. The knobs closest to the neck are the volume controls for each pickup, the lower two are the tone controls. Try all the combinations of pickup/tone to see which best suit the song or style you're playing. Typically, the neck pick-up on its own will give a smoother, more 'soft jazz' tone, the bridge pick-up alone will be sharper, with more 'bite'; a combination is easily 'dialled in' by messing about with all of the controls. There are no rules; just listen with your own ears and create the sound you want. Hope this helps. Douglas
  9. Have a look at this, maybe..? Hope it helps.
  10. Ha..! The way I play guitar, any guitar, it's instantly recognisable as 'my own', however 'distinctive' it may be..! Fat chance of being taken for Brian May, using a 'Red', still less Hendrix with a Strat, or Alvin Lee with a 335..! Quality will out, and those players have qualities that I do not. I stand out in any crowd of players; just maybe not for the right reasons..!
  11. Contact these folk (they're in the UK...); their 6-way blade switch looks like it'll fit the bill... Free-way Switch ... Hope this helps. Douglas
  12. Play 'Em' at the seventh fret (same fingering as 'Am', but barred, higher up the neck...). Use the 3rd string, then 1st string, then 2nd string,10th fret as the starting 'melody' line (played twice...), then just mess around with the notes of that scale, keeping the 6/8 rhythm going, and you can't go too far wrong. The exact notes are less important than the 'feel', using diatonic notes, hammer-ons and pull-offs, and coming back to those initial 'melody' notes now and again. Try it..?
  13. An excellent guitar, being sold by a well-respected member of our Forums. A no-brainer, indeed, and at a real bargain price, too. Jump on it; you won't regret it. (Good call, EZ...).
  14. You'd be hard pressed to find a bad guitar at that price point from any of the on-line suppliers. There are none that are to be 'wary' of, with, just maybe, the famous 'weakness' of the Gibson Les Paul headstock volute, which has been known to break when dropped, even when in its case. Not an issue at £400, new, though, and even that's an easy fix for any decent luthier. The repaired joint is stronger than the original wood. No, stop fussing about such negative ideas and get the instrument that you desire, then enjoy it. Let us know how you get on, please..?
  15. Moving the pots to any position doesn't per se change the way they work. If they are now backwards, you've inverted the wiring, I'd say, and it would suffice to swap the two outer wires on each pot to have them work as they did before. Volume pots are normally logarithmic (that's to say : more sensitive at one end of travel than the other...); that would be a clue as to whether the wires have been swapped. Hope this helps.
  16. I think the question is really 'Do you want a guitar with a vibrato bar or not..?). Yamaha don't make anything bad, at any of their price points, and the Pacifica 212 is a fine guitar. It's very different compared to a Tele-type guitar, though. Neck comfort will be independent of such a choice, as you will only find out if you like any one of them by playing one. If you look through the Thomann on-line catalogue (other on-line suppliers exist...), choose whichever you like best at the price you wish to pay, and play it when it arrives. The shape, features, colour et al will be seen before buying, but how it feels to you 'in the flesh' only you can decide when you play it. There are hundreds to choose from (from the Harley Benton range alone there are dozens around that price point...), so take your time, but choose one that 'speaks' to you. From a neck point of view, you'll not find a better way of knowing if it's right for you, if you can't try 'em out in person, in a shop. A shop won't have such a range, though. If importing from Thomann doesn't suit, there are several UK purveyors of guitars with a web presence, with the same guarantee of return if it's not comfortable enough. Only you can answer that question.
  17. If buying on line from a reputable shop, you have the right to decide that it's not to your liking, for whatever reason, and can return it (in perfect condition, obviously...) and try another. That's expressly what the distance selling regulations are for. Choose one that you think is best for you, and try it out. No-one here can decide for you how any guitar will suit you, so I'd suggest that that's your best option. Good luck with it. Disclaimer : I have many guitars and basses, and have never found any great discomfort in changing from one to another. I'm only a modest home player, of course, but, to me, a guitar is a guitar is a guitar, so I'm not at all precious about neck width, string spacing or whatever. Most can be set up to suit one's preferences, I d say. Hope this helps. Douglas
  18. I understand fully, being rather 'mature' in years, myself (73, last birthday...). My 'speciality' is archtop semi-acoustics; I have several Hofners, and hosted a French Hofner Bash' for a couple of years, here in France. Our Eldest makes his own guitars, and repairs any waifs or strays that are confided to us, electric or acoustic. He is not the most rapid in this, but the result is 'up to snuff'. We have a current project, yet to be started, re-setting the neck of my Hofner 500-3, Senator bass which, over the years, has slipped a little. The neck will be steamed off, the joint cleaned up and reset back in its proper place, using Titebond glue, so that, in another fifty years or so, it can again be repaired, if necessary, the same way. All respect to your brother's prowess, but luthery has its own reasons for doing things; we've seen too many instruments that can no longer be repaired following previous attempts that didn't use the correct process or materials. I'm a drummer, basically, but have been playing guitar and bass since... Well, even longer than that. My playing certainly does not do justice to the instruments I own, but in decades past it sufficed in groups and bands of the time. Dexterity and speed was never my forté, but the years are taking their toll just the same, so I'm not as lest as before, and it doesn't improve now with practice. Never mind; I'm not booked to play Olympia either, so that's OK..! Here's to many more happy years (decades..?) fingering the fretboard; meanwhile... Have a splendid day. Douglas
  19. That's not the way to repair a guitar, and would certainly make it a 'no-no' for me. Sorry, but if it plays OK for now, great, but it's no longer worth much at all.
  20. Good evening, @oldtimer, and ... ... Plenty to read and amuse you here, and lots to learn and share. A bit of a shame, as these are pretty decent guitars, as indeed is pretty much everything that Yamaha make. A repair of any sort would be a ref flag for most buyers, even if done expertly, but, if the repair is honestly declared and described, and the price reflects this, it can make someone very happy. Good Show for taking the trouble to save a nice guitar from the torture of a wall hanging; pass it on to someone who will appreciate it, with battle scars. One 'tip' for 12-strings, often used, is to tune the guitar down a whole tone, and use a capo at the second fret. This reduces the tension on the bridge, which, on some instruments, have a tendance to become 'pot-bellied', or even have the bridge lift off. Hope this helps. Douglas
  21. The 'real' overdriven sound of a valve amp comes, not from its pre-amp, but from the power valves, which produce those pleasing overtones when pushed hard. That's why valve amps are cranked loud, if that sound is required. The only way to get it 'really' is to have a valve amp and turn it up a lot, into a very good, solid cab or cabs; this can result in shattered windows, and buggered ear-drums. In the '60s, we knew no better, but there's no excuse these days. Either buy a very good modelling amp, or use a 'Tube Screamer'-type pedal. It's much, much lighter, eats far less electricity (and so is good for the Planet...) and 'that' sound can be had at reasonable volume levels. As it happens, I'm not a fan of disto, dirt, crunch et al; I like a nice clean sound, so my valve amps don't get pushed in that way. Our 'trick', back then, to get that sound without going deaf was to put the 4x12 cab flat on the carpeted floor, speaker side down, so as to allow the amp to be turned up and not go deaf. Yes, a cranked valve amp can be glorious, in the right hands, but it's a very expensive game. The previous answer is correct; you can't play a valve amp without its speaker load (unless it's been specially designed for that, which is rare...), and it's impossible to get 'that' sound as an input to a solid-state amp. Get a pedal; start with a Tube Screamer (the clue is in the name...). Hope this helps. Douglas
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