Dad3353

I must be very near the end of the sartorial scale; if any 'look' was to come back in fashion, I might be considered 'smartly dressed' if it was medieval Viking (and even then, hardly...). It's not, and never has been, a criteria in my life. Decent, clean, hard-wearing... I'm rather of the 'Einstein' model, as I have a medium stack of rugby shirts folded on their shelf. I put the clean one on top, and take the one from the bottom. Same for all other items. I can't really imagine any reason for dressing otherwise, except, maybe, for a 'themed' fancy dress party, and even then I'd go as an old rugbyman, I suppose. To me, life's far too short to bother with such notions, and, as with many other things, if I don't understand the 'rules' (and I don't...), I just don't play the game. I have one pair of shoes.  

I'm wading through this two-hour seminar, given by Ted Greene. A 'simple' Telecaster, a 'simple' Fender amp, and a 'simple' set of competent fingers ... I can't watch it in one sitting; there's too much going on. Good Stuff...

6 hours ago, Skinnyman said:

...And I’m bricking it...

The solution is simple enough, and you've given the clue to it, yourself ...

6 hours ago, Skinnyman said:

... I’ve been in plays, I delivered speeches at conferences large and small ...

Once on stage, deliver a speech to the audience (large or small...). Not for too long, naturally, or they'll all leave. 

6 minutes ago, leftybassman392 said:

...How about 'The commune'?

Daft, drivelly and off the wall as always, but imbued with peace and love, man.

4 hours ago, Skinnyman said:

...They’re very lovely as pieces of furniture ...

So, you're the fellow with the kitchen top, eh..? Hmm... 

...

2 hours ago, Skinnyman said:

...what’s the opposite of iniquity?...

Virtue..? 

This bloke's quite good ...

Good evening, Scott , and ...

Plenty to read and amuse you here, and lots to learn and share.

No suggestions except... Go for it..! 

... or this ..?

9 hours ago, Skinnyman said:

...Anyone got any others that they’ve found helpful or particularly well written?

Without hesitation, this one ...

Mickey Baker's Complete Course in Jazz Guitar ...

Stupidly low price, and a wealth of information that one would be hard to garner elsewhere. I've worn out several copies over the last fifty-odd years, and still consult it. Indispensable. 

Good evening, NM, and ...

Plenty to read and amuse you here, and lots to learn and share.

Ah, here we go ...

This, in the foreground, is the airbrush kit I bought for little money. The black support is, in fact, the compressor. It did a reasonable job for a couple of years, including the 'plane in the background ...

This is my spray booth; a card sheet folded on the workbench. I'm applying a matt black undercoat, as the final finish will be silver, and black is good for that...

Here's the same 'plane with its silver finish, airbrushed in the same way...

In the background, on the floor, can be seen my current compressor, with a tank ...

... and here's what I was using it for. Note that it's the same airbrush pen; I only have the one...

Here's the result; a cardboard 'plane for The Littl'Un...

I use the same airbrush for stuff like this (1/6 scale New Zealand bush pilot...) ...

Hope this helps. 

3 minutes ago, Kiwi said:

I'm going to need a spray gun or equivalent for decent coverage.  An airbrush just isn't going to cut it unforunately.

I'm not sure that I agree. My (very...) modest airbrush would do a guitar or bass body, no problem. It wouldn't suit painting a car, but folk use systems of the sort for motorbike fuel tanks, or crash helmets, and much more. I think you'd get better quality of finish and coverage from a half-decent airbrush than from a cheap paint sprayer. Unless you're going for mass-production, of course, in which case a spray booth could be set up. I use my airbrush in my modelling 'den', with no need for extra ventilation; just a large cardboard back-screen. I'll see if I can find a photo...
My Dad made toys for Christmas, but hated having to paint them. One year, it was flat-pack dolls houses; I went to help him with the spraying. He had a compressor and gun set up in the back bedroom. Kitted out like astronauts, with a full mask, 'charlotte', long gloves... One squirt of the gun and one could see nothing; all was a dark green mist filling the small room. He'd rigged 'ventilation' of sorts, with a pipe going up the gutter down-pipe, so the paint-charged air was shot upwards. Several houses down-wind were doubtless surprised to find green spots on their washing, with no idea of where it came from..! Happy Daze... 

8 hours ago, Kiwi said:

... I'm going to have to find a delivery system that isn't paint in a can based...

For my model 'planes, I've had good results with a modest airbrush compressor system, or a 'pistol-grip' sprayer, available from several Far Eastern sources for under $50. Better yet would be one with a 'tank' compressor, for around $100. I've upgraded my system since (and even then, the very good compressor I bought was not ruinous...), and still use the original airbrush 'pen'. Worth a look..?

Airbrushes ...

18 hours ago, Kiwi said:

... I'm probably going to flood the wood with it from a half litre bottle and push it around with a sponge brush before the first coat soaks in completely...

Try that first with a bit of gash wood; Our Eldest had to do it almost a drop at a time, as it goes off very quickly once it's on the wood. You may be luckier, of course, but if it goes wrong, there's no going back, so I'd recommend a 'dry run'. 

1 minute ago, ezbass said:

CA = cyanoacrylate?

Yes 

7 hours ago, Kiwi said:

... I'll be carving/scraping the top myself and sealing with CA ...

Our Eldest did the same, using CA as a finish for his first electric Build ...

... over a wood stain. It took a couple of weeks, working outside, with disposable gloves, as the stuff is pretty toxic. The finish is superb, and unlikely to wear. Some practise on gash wood is required, to get the right rhythm for applying the CA, rubbing it around, moving on, repeat... and it took about a dozen coats to build up the effect. 

(There are no plastic parts used; the binding, pick-up surrounds, even the toggle switch cap, are hand-made wooden parts. The inlays are mother of pearl, the nut a beef bone.  ...)

Yes, of course; mostly drum parts, though (I'm a drummer...). 

3 hours ago, Rikki_Sixx said:

...You mention curved / flat ones. Is that referring to the "top" bit which would fret the strings? 

Exactly, it has to match the profile of the fingerboard, in order to clamp each string to the fret. It's only a slight difference, but it's best to get the right one for the job. 

1 hour ago, Rikki_Sixx said:

Hi guys, I'm very slowly working my way through Fender Play's blues track. Upcoming (and optional) lessons involve using a capo.

Beginner question: Are all capos pretty much the same? Looking at images, some look to have "teeth" to better grip the neck but the last thing I'd want to do is buy one that's a bit on the tight site and it chews into the fat neck of my 339. I'm sure there are branded ones for like £30 or whatever, but otherwise are run-of-the-mill £10-ish ones all much the same? Is there such thing as a "bad" capo?

Cheers!

I'd recommend a 'trigger'-style capo, for its consistent efficiency, ease of use and solidity. Here's four, from Amazon; cheap enough to try out, with a slightly more expensive option...

Amazon Trigger Capos ...

Our Eldest uses these (or ones like 'em...), fitting one for the intro of 'Under The Bridge' before whipping it off for the rest of the song. Our Second Guitar uses one, too, to match the singer's choice of key. They all have rubber 'jaws', and do no harm at all to the guitar neck.
Hope this helps. 

Edit : Note the difference in shape between a 'flat' one (for nylon, classical, flamenco guitars with flat fingerboard...) and 'curved' (for electric, archtop, radiused fingerboards...) and buy accordingly. The rubber jaw will accommodate any slight difference in curveture, normally.

1 hour ago, Skinnyman said:

...And I don’t see why I should suffer alone;

https://prsguitars.com/electrics/model/se_custom_24_lefty_2021

Cat among the pigeons, eh..? Go, Lefty; Go Go Go..! 

Good evening, Steve, and ...

Plenty to read and amuse you here, and lots to learn and share.
 

3 hours ago, Dom in Somerset said:

Annnnd rest...

Well deserved; a splendid job. Well done, that man. 

Several solutions to this. The most effective, I'd say, is to have the drummer trigger the Fx, using a MIDI pad. That way, the Fx are triggered at the right spot in the song, whether the drummer is faster or slower.
If, on the other hand, the Fx themselves have a specific BPM, the only real recourse is to have the drummer playing to the 'click'. I wouldn't like to think of the train crash if all the band are in sync with the keys and Fx, but not the drummer. It makes no sense.
I'm assuming that these are simply 'one-shot' Fx, such as a bit of sampled sound, and not a constant tempo-linked delay or the like..? If the latter is the case, all the band has to have that tempo available to them, and that really means that the drummer plays that BPM, with a click track, end of story. You all play to the drummer, including the keys. The Fx have to be set to the drummer's tempo. If his tempo varies during the song, change the drummer.

(Disclaimer : I'm a drummer...)

3 hours ago, EliasxGuitar said:

I didn’t know what topic to put this question under, so apologies if this is the wrong one...

how do I get the metronome click on my in ears along with my band?

Edit: my band doesn’t use a backing track

Are you the drummer..? Normally, if he/she requires it, the drummer would be the only one with a 'click'; everyone else plays off the drummer, so...
Explain a bit more about your band set-up and your need for a 'click', please..?